Perfume was first used by ancient Egyptians as part of their religious rituals, such as cleansing ceremonies. By 1500 BC the application of scented oils was also used for cosmetic and medicinal purposes, and women used perfumed creams as a prelude to lovemaking. The use of perfume spread to Greece, Rome and the Islamic world, but dwindled with the fall of the Roman Empire and the beginning of the dark ages. It was not until the twelfth century and the birth of international trade that this decline was reversed, leading to a gradual upturn in the fortunes of the market that brings us right up to the modern age of mass-marketed and exclusive scents.
The worlds first recorded chemist is widely considered to be a person named Tapputi, a Mesopotamian perfume maker from the second millennium BC, mentioned on an ancient stone tablet. Perfume makers around this time would have used herbs and spices, such as almond, coriander, myrtle, bergamot but not flowers. It was a Persian doctor, Avicenna, who introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation. This was a crucial development, taking us from the strong, overpowering smells formulated from herbs and spices, to the more delicate scents from, at first, roses. Rose water immediately became popular across the world. Moreover, the distillation technology developed with perfume-making in mind, had far-reaching consequences for western science, particularly chemistry.
As Islam spread into Europe, the Islamic community’s knowledge of perfume came with it. The first modern perfume – a blend of scented oils in an alcoholic solution - is believed to have been commissioned by Queen Elizabeth of Hungary in 1370. The blend was known throughout Europe as Hungary Water. The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy. Rene le Florentin was the personal perfumer of Catherine de’Medici of France, and had a secret passageway from his laboratory to her apartments, so that no formula could be stolen en route. France quickly became the European centre of perfume manufacture. The cultivation of flowers for the purpose of making perfume became huge business.
Scents were used during the renaissance primarily by the wealthy, or royalty, with an aim to mask body odour in those less-than-sanitary times. Undoubtedly, this patronage was the major factor in the creation of the western perfume industry.
Perfumed gloves became popular in 17th century France and the court of Louis XV was even known as “the perfumed court” due to daily application of scents to skin, clothes, fans and furniture. As political turmoil spread throughout the country during the following century, a quieter revolution took place with the development of eau de Cologne, a refreshing blend of rosemary, neroli, bergamot and lemon. Glass containers became increasingly popular with the opening of the Baccarat factory in 1765, and many perfumers bottled their scents in attractive Louis XIV-style pear-shaped containers.
Fragrance houses began to emerge throughout Europe during the 19th century, including the Crown Perfumery, under the patronage of Queen Victoria. Bottling became more and more important as a way of identifying the brand.
In 1921 Gabrielle Chanel launched her own brand of perfume, called Chanel No.5, because the scent was the fifth example to be presented to her by perfumer Ernest Beaux. Since then, the popularity of perfume has mushroomed during the 20th century, eventually giving way to the modern era of celebrity-endorsed perfumes and many a designer fragrance. There are currently over 30,000 designer perfumes on the market, and they are no longer the preserve of the wealthy. For instance Escada has a new scent for the summer, which comes decadently packaged as does that old-rogue brand Dunhill, who have concocted a fragrance for the terribly English male and called it Dunhill London.
Perfumes are widely available and relatively cheap. They make ideal birthday gifts, and can scintillate the senses of any modern woman as much as they did Queen Victoria’s and Cleopatra’s before her.